For days as we’ve rolled towards the end of our adventure our spirits have been flattened, kind of low .. still ecstatic to be on track and loving all we do, but not so ecstatic to know that all fantastic good things must come to an end!
As I “drink” in the sound of the surf and dreamily gaze out to sea, recalling the mountains the seas the beauty, the solitude the open spaces … I am so grateful to have been on this journey, more than grateful to have shared each and every step with my soulmate and excitedly looking forward to doing it all … or something very like it ,again ❤️
168 days into our adventure and our yearning to hug our beautiful daughter never wained! Her intention at the start of our adventure was to meet up with us somewhere along the way. However we were rarely in the same place for more than a day and if we were we were at a distance from civilisation and airports!!
But… fortunately for us soon after our amazing trip to the tip of Aus the stars aligned and we were able to have a heavenly reunion in Hamilton Island, with our gorgeous Jen and her lovely Ben!
From hugs to sunset drinks, games, more drinks , Putt Putt championships, Hobby cat sailing, to swimming with Jen and a giant, slow, elegantly moving, turtle!!!! We had the most wonderful time together.
We do think that Michelle would be proud of what we have done! Our 4WD hero and a person we strive to be like… off road! (Refer South Australia’s posts…)
The first day was up the Bloomfield track, through the Daintree and some lively inclines and declines, nearly 30 degrees, but concreted… an easy first test! I’m sure this was planned to make sure that cars and drivers were in good shape for what was to come.
That night at the iconic ”Lions Den” hotel, between Cooktown and Laketown, we were still fairly dust free, confident and itching to get into it! Which happened the next day, as we got our first taste of the PDR, (Peninsula Development Road). The main road up Cape York to the tip and is a mix of sealed surface and corrugations.
Being close to the wet-season, the road is being ignored, so its hard to describe what its like driving for hours on these corrugations… the size of waves on a stormy day. There were times where the far right shoulder had become the main road, as we tried to find a smooth path. Consistent and unrelenting rattling! Every few hours we would stop and check that everything was still attached and intact. (Roof racks, suspension, fillings and retinas!)
Then we got to Bramwell station, the beginning of the OTT! In the afternoon we took our first drive down this track, that has not been maintained since the 80’s, and it showed its age!
We got to Palm Creek, which is known to be one of the most difficult crossings, the energy changed! Looking straight down the 4 meter vertical drop, we were all wondering how and if we were going to get out of this alive!
Palm Creek Drop In!
Turns out the creek crossings are mostly easy, it’s the damage to the banks on either side that make them difficult. Hoons push the pedal to the metal and spin their wheels, churning up the ground… digging and destroying all!
With silent relief it was decide to take the by-pass … and cut back in near gunshot! Now the sound of a ‘by-pass’ might sound like a nice little road taking you around the obstacle… it is not! The by-pass is a track that people hammer down and cause more corrugations, washouts and general messiness! While you have no option on the OTT to go very slow and carefully; people speed down the by-pass!!
Then we got to gunshot!
We did not do that!!
We went about 50m to the side and went down a more realistic/less damaging entry and used the trusty maxtrax to help get down slow and steady and then get us up and out!
Going down, slow and steady…
Well some of us didn’t make it up as easily… and our winching skills where put to the test…
Trailer made it harder to get up…
After getting all car’s through unharmed… we were confident we could tackle anything… until just past Cockatoo creek and another crossing stopped us, as we could not safely get everyone across! Better safe than sorry we doubled back to the by-pass and a few more hours on the PDdddddRrrrrr.
A whole new meaning to shake, rattle and thankfully no rolling!
Sitting on the patio of our little cabin at Ellis Beach, watching the Stone-Curlews strut their stuff, its hard to believe it was just 20 days ago we were here! We have had an epic adventure, that has taken us to the tip of our country, do the infamous ‘gunshot creek’ and meet some great people.
What a contrast, the restrained greetings at our initial meeting and the warm embraces of farewells. The group of like minded, but diverse people, had the bond that only a shared experience like this can build.
The trip took us to experience a great deal of what Cape York has to offer; rainforrests, the Old Telegraph Track, the corrugations of the Peninsula Development Road, waterfalls, waterholes, stations and roadhouses, and even beyond … to Thursday Island!
Our guide Cam, has been travelling this area since he was a young boy. His mother was a guide back inthe 70’s and 80’s, when the trip was truely an adventure. In those days there were no sealed roads, some crossings involved drum-barges and many days of slow progress! His experience helped get us novices through some pretty hairy stuff, unscathed and believing that we did it all by ourselves!
The group bonded well, with some standout characters
Ann in her 70’s, drove her old manual HiLux, called ‘green queen’, with a heavy right foot! (Coming into gunshot she hadn’t quite engaged 4WD low and came at speed.) She tried on a few occasions to convince us that due to it being a manual, she had to start fast!!!
Philip the ex-headmaster loved to add context to every radio call. While Cam was trying to keep the channel free for safety reasons, Philip loved to explain everything in detail! A simple ‘Cruiser oncoming!’, would translate into about a one minute call. Even after I joked about his need to add too much context to everything, someone along the way asked where we were from and Phillip started saying “Well my grandfather was from France”, before we beat him to death!!
Danielle, the mother of our family of 5 and the NSW police detective who has seen her fair share of unscrupulous humans. As down to earth and grounded as a person who went from the leafy surrounds of Wahroonga to the sex-crimes unit!
Charlie – Cam’s son of 14 going on 25… an apprentice mechanic and his father’s right hand man… moving maxtraks, choosing tracks and a general handyman. When we walked up Mt Cook, Viv noticed some ‘scratch marks’ on the track… Charlie was marking the track! NIck walking with him said it was like walking with a ‘scrub chicken’. Charlie was intently interested in what people ate and completely open about his life, much in contrast to his father!
The Family!CharlieContext Phil, Terry-Marie and VivLisa and Heavy Foot Ann
We decided to join a tag-along tour for our trip up Cape York! It was easier than planning and booking, and we would get to more of the ‘fun 4×4 challenges’, as we would be supported!
First issue was to figure out if we were going to take our cargo carrier or not! So we met our guide, Cam, and went through it with him. He looked suggested various things and took some pictures, in order to confer with the owner of the tour company. The answer was emphatic… it was not coming along!! So we dumped it behind some bungalow in Ellis Beach and will retrieve it at the end. Which means we can now open the back, unencumbered!
Stashed Cargo!
Then we met all our companion travellers, a small group, thank goodness, two cars of greyish nomads, the RFD nurses and the retired school principal, and a family of 5, including a special child. Mostly like minded people, all getting along pretty well… at this stage.
Now there is one huge difference here, we are no longer masters of our own destiny!
After nearly 5 months, we have become an efficient team, able to go from waking up to driving away, in around 30 minutes! (Including morning ablutions, coffee and breakfast!) Popping the tent up, takes less than a minute! Not as easy if you are setting up tents or an off-road camper trailer! So while we sit there chilling, we do get the odd ‘death stare’ or comment past! Same at the other end of the day as we wait for the defined leaving time!
The other major change is we are off the ‘Clive’ schedule!! Now instead of arriving just in time for a shower and to make dinner… we can get to the camp site at 2pm! Just too chill!! While Viv is loving it, I’m trying to get used to all this time we have!
Lastly, driving in convoy with its order and radio protocols … making the group dynamics interesting! The poor guide, ex-military, trying to get everyone in line, keep communications brief and relevant. Dustin was on the phone and heard Viv say “Charlie-Copy” and immediately asked, “Are you tail end Charlie!” However our retired school principal like a great deal more detail and background in his communications!
A visit from Janey in beautiful Ellis beach, after just over 5 months, was the perfect treat! We drank in the sunshine, shared some wine, and had a great catch up! ”Stoned Curlies”😉 ( Stone Curlews) through the night, palm fringed beaches, no crocodiles in sight … thank you for coming Janey ❤️❤️❤️Now excitedly heading up to Cape York and the tip of Aus😊😊😊
One thing we have been missing is our cycling, we deemed it too hard to bring bikes! So when we see there is some nice path, like a rail trail, we plan to find hire bikes! Atherton has one of these routes and we googled and found “Atherton Bike Hire”… so we were all set!
A couple of day’s before we got to Atherton we filled out and sent the booking request, no reponse. We got to Atherton and went to the address for them, very closed up. We found his details and emailed Dave the bike hire man, no response! Called his mobile, no response!
We call the other bike shop, they don’t hire out, something to do with COVID! Still pursuing a plan B, we went passed the information centre. The lovely woman responded with a step towards the door and pointing said “Yes of course, just up there at the furniture store … the blue building.” How obvious is that! So off we went to the furniture store, maybe they do bikes and couches:)
Young salesman smiles and tells us, “Yes, the previous owner used to hire bikes, but we don’t!” He gets up and give us a calling card, “Dave does, here are his deails!”
Bottom line Dave is clearly the only place highering bikes, but he is AWOL!
So disappointed but still flexible Clive and Viv put the ride the trail trail in Atherton to bed!
Plan C … lets walk up another summit, (or two as it turns out), we have done quite a few during our trip . The plan is to go up Mount Baldy situated at the back of our campsite and return via Mount Yabbi!
We set off the next morning in the particularly crisp cool air and head along to the point of departure! We’re greeted by uniformed men, their trucks and machinery, with a question, “Anyone else behind you?”,
“Oh no we’re just beginning the track!”, at which point the young lad informs us, “Not today, we’re back burning! We alerted everyone … so not today!”
Plan D, amble into town and have a great breakfast at the highly rated vegan cafe. Closed Monday to Wednesday! Feeling like we were doomed I happened to google a bike repair website, not exactly sure why I called, but I did!
Doug runs a bike repair shop from his backyard, I ask once again about bike hire and of course he answers yes there’s Dave … I fill him in on the current state of Dave … To which he asks, “How many bikes are you after?”, “Just 2, to do the rail trail”, I say … long, long story short after a couple of calls he offers us his and his wife’s bike for the morning!
Within minutes we’ve picked up two E bikes and making our way along the rail trail! 25km out and we turn around to return and the wind has picked up, we were grateful to have E-bikes especially as we rode against the wind back into Atherton with mount Baldy completely covered in thick smoke!
I had to pinch myself in week 1 … the days and weeks stretched out ahead of us … free to discover and fall in love with our spectacular land and that’s just what we did!
The saying “time flies when you’re having fun” was simply epitomised over these past 17 weeks! On the road now for nearly 5 months, our hearts sagged as we came to the realisation that 6 months was now just 6 weeks …
How lucky we’ve been, how much we’ve seen and how excited we are to continue and complete our journey. Well, this one anyway!
Currently loving the green hills, tropical forests and countless waterfalls of The Atherton Tablelands before we make our way up to Cape York to explore our final “tip” of the country… before heading south!
Arriving at Talaroo we were not expecting to be moved by a people who’s a story of hope and reconciliation is so powerful, after the injustice’s they have suffered.
The wikicamp reviews were outstanding, which is unusual as normally you have to read many, to get an idea of what a place is really like. For Talaroo, 99% were glowing… and so we drove in and were welcomed by Michelle in that hospitable way I’ve spoken about before.
Having some time before our afternoon tour we sat in the common area, relaxing while the wifi dribbled bits like a leaking tap. A woman, with “guide” across her back, sat there finishing up her lunch. I said “You must be Livinia!”, having read her rave reviews. “Yea, where’s yous from?”… this is how the connection began. We learned a little about this woman, who is part of the original group, building up this facility, as they are in their first full season.
In the early afternoon they clean up and allow fresh hot water into the wading pools. Lavinia was on her way to clean the toilets… in her cheery way tells us she would rather be ‘Throwing a line into that creek there!”, and urges us to go for a swim. “Some freshies down there, but they won’t bother ya!”.
The smallish tour group wandered down to the hot-springs at LIvinia’s slow pace. When we reach the beginning of the boardwalk she stopped and asked us to wait. She turned briefly away from us, towards the water, and her posture changed! A few moments past and she turned and began her welcome to country! We are all familiar with the words, but this is not like any you have witnessed, These were not just words to repeat, this welcome came from her soul. Her pride and connection to country was evident!
Over the various bubbling springs we heard about their geology and various interesting facts; temperature, age etc. Then the stories turned to the Ewamian people, how and when they come to this place, what they did and how it was used. The stories moved to the late 1800’s as the whites came and took over the land. The ‘Cobb and Co’ company, using the springs to give their passengers a break, “tea and a soak in the hot springs!”
Then it got dark! She tells a story of a ‘white fella’ who got a black woman pregnant. He decided to end that, by placing her in a pool, at over 65 degrees… the local people had to retrieve the body a week later!
She then tells the story of her grandmother, one of two survivors of the massacre of women and children about 10km away. A place they now call ‘Memorial Park’, but has been known as Skull Creek. She relays the story not with anger, venom or for revenge, but with a deep sorrow and sadness. That we all then felt!
We then dangled our feet in a hot pool… quietly reflecting on what we have learnt! As your feet enter the 45+ degree water, I try not to let out a profanity. Strangely enough keeping you feet it becomes tolerable, but the slightest movement brings a fresh wave of pain!
It’s custom at Talaroo to light the communal fire and have some ‘old fellas’ come down to have a ‘yarn’. During our stay the board of the Ewamian People’s Corporation was doing some strategic planning, so they all join us around the fire.
Five elders, three involved in the original quest for native title. Their ”auntie” called them up in Brisbane and told them to come up to discuss the new legislation. All three were working for Qld rail and began the process. Today they seem like bothers!
Brian, as black as the ace of spades, at 73 has a story or two to tell! He worked for the Colins family, who owned most of this part of the world, as a drover herding cattle up and down the top end. (He also had two siblings with fair skin taken and he has never seen them again!)
JR is the last of the old fellas, however he was only around 50! He lives in Talaroo and is responsible for driving tourism. He had a certain swagger and seemed to love being nicknamed Ewing!
We chat about the process that took over 20 years from the 1990’s to the mid 2010’s to gain ‘native title’. Giving them the right to use and have a say in the use, or should I say abuse, of the land. (Ironic when you consider that it probably took a few days for some white guy to lay claim on the land in the 1800’s!)
In 2016, the Ewamian people purchased 31000 acres, including Talaroo, and are developing it out into a tourist destination. The have two primary divers, to share this place with everyone and to preserve their culture. The sharing is obvious in everything we experienced, the welcoming attitude, the stories and the willingness of the elders to join in.
Preserving the culture involves getting their young people involved. Their tourism plan is to attract the mob’s young to come back to this place. Give them employment, allow them to keep the connection to country and learn culture by becoming guides. It seems to be working as young Lenny, in his first week, was brimming with enthusiasm and a willingness to learn. Having had various jobs he now sees a future there on the land and he was loving it!
The experience at Talaroo was in stark contrast to a number of similar places. Stanley Chasm, just outside Alice Springs, charges you a fee to view; no connection, no story, no information… nothing! The only apparent investment was a big fence, making sure you paid! You feel like you have been milked for money.
Cape Leveque… like so many other places in the top end, is closed due to ’management considerations’, meaning the local mobs can’t agree!
The elders ask about our experience and gather feedback. I’m always sceptical, about these exit surveys. But we all provide our thoughts and the collective praise for Lavinia. Leaving we run into Lavinia, who is about to lead her first tour. She seemed bemused that the elders all gave her a cuddle and thanked her! I could see Viv holding herself back from embracing her as well!
As we leave Lavinia shouts out to us… “Yous keep safe now! Yous make sure you come back and visit us again, real soon!”
Clive Gold 